Benjamin Coy

Cuisine: Wine bar
Location: Oak Park, IL
Price: Moderately expensive
Website: MarionStreetCheeseMarket.com

Like many of the places we enjoy, The Marion Street Cheese Market is a combination wine bar, restaurant, and retail shop. As of today, they've been operating in their expanded location for less than two weeks, so their menu, service, and atmosphere are likely to evolve as they learn how to cater to their clientele.

Unlike many cafés of this nature, the emphasis here is not on the wine itself (though the list is fairly long and contains some interesting selections) but on playing around with pairings and flavor combinations. This is most easily seen on the "flights" list, which does not refer to wine at all, but, as one might guess based on the name and history of the establishment, cheeses. The wines themselves can be ordered in tasting portions so that patrons can construct their own flights to complement the cheeses or other food.

The menu contains no large entrées. 12 inch Neapolitan-style pizzas come in a handful of varieties and a small selection of salads and soups are available. The majority of the menu, however, is devoted to small plates. The flavors are decidedly contemporary and urban, influenced by French technique, Spanish tapas, and midwestern produce. Prosciutto and melon is updated on this menu to prosciutto and mango, and a baked brie is encrusted in crushed hazelnuts. A broccoli-cheddar bake proves that the combination has gotten an undeservedly poor reputation from stadium cheese-sauce, and a chocolate pot du crème showed off the quality of 60% Callebaut chocolate. The best thing I tasted tonight was a Gunthorp Farms duck leg confit over a cheesy mushroom risotto. The bird was tender, moist, and flavorful (not oily at all), and the risotto had the perfect al dente yet creamy texture. It was a work of art.

There were some problems, of course, but I think they'll be ironed out pretty quickly. Katy ordered a Gewürztraminer, but our waitress was unable to pronounce the varietal when verifying the order. We saw table bread being delivered to other tables, but apparently the policy is that we had to ask for it to get it; they didn't want it going to waste. The bread itself tasted great, but it was not warm, and was not served with butter or anything else to put on top. Our waitress was also unable to identify all the accoutrements served with our cheese flight. Some of the portions (hummus and prosciutto in particular) were a bit meager for the price, but others (the risotto, for instance) were almost large enough to be full entrées. I would have preferred the sizes to be more predictable, if only to help patrons plan the amount of food they want to consume.

It's a very nice place; if I lived in Oak Park, I would definitely make use of their retail cheese and wine options regularly; as it is, I'll be very interested in stopping by for a cheese flight and a glass of wine next time I happen to be on the west side of the city.

Ben - 10:24 PM - 0 comments

Cuisine: Wine bar
Location: Royal Oak, MI
Price: Moderately expensive
Website: vinotecca.com

Upon entering Vinotecca, the first thing I noticed was the decor. A huge dark wood bar displayed hundreds of wine bottles as well as making several available on tap. The wooden ceiling was curved to mimic the inside of a gargantuan wine barrel. On the far wall was a piece of abstract art that completed the modern yet comfortable atmosphere. Our waiter was very hands-off; he never hovered, interfering with our conversation. However, when we needed him, simple eye contact brought him over to us. He was very knowledgeable about the somewhat limited menu and the less limited wine selection. He resisted making pairing recommendations, but instead described two or three wines that matched both our entrees and the qualities we were looking for. After dinner, we ordered a bottle and sat for quite a long time talking, and he never made any indications that our table might be better used for patrons placing new orders. In short, the atmosphere was very relaxed. I almost felt like we were seeing what our Evanston favorite, The Stained Glass, looked like a few years ago, when it was still more wine bar and less restaurant. The food itself was very good, but I wouldn't say it was particularly interesting. It was quality food made with quality ingredients, but primarily intended to highlight the wine. I can't speak for how the bill compares to other semi-gourmet establishments in the area, but certainly by Chicago standards, I think we got quite a lot for our money. I was very pleased with the entire evening, and plan to return.

Ben - 12:48 AM - 0 comments

Cuisine: Argentinean steaks
Location: Southport, Chicago
Price: Moderate
Website: Yelp review

Tango Sur serves enormous portions of top-quality steak at miniscule prices. The steaks are astoundingly good cuts of meat, prepared as well as any multi-star steakhouse in Chicago, and priced around $20. Entrees for one actually have enough meat for two - the filet mignon dish actually comes with two large cuts as well as a mountain of mashed potatoes and a salad. Some entrees are intended for two people, but may as well serve the whole table. Last time we were there, we ordered a roast dish for two, and it was served on a little tabletop grill to keep it hot as we made our way through as much of it as we could. Another price-reducing factor is the restaurant's BYOB policy; anything you drink with your meal is at retail price. There's a decent wine store basically right across the street for convenience. Truly great food in a casual atmosphere with very casual prices. Highly highly recommended.

Ben - 12:10 AM - 0 comments

Cuisine: American
Location: Hyde Park, Chicago
Price: Moderate
Website: medici57.com

Located only a few blocks from the University of Chicago, this restaurant caters to a somewhat Bohemian clientele of students, staff and faculty. Medici started out as a coffee shop, which still operates in a storefront directly adjacent to the main restaurant. On the other side, Medici also operates the University Market, which sells a variety of prepackaged and deli goods. Inside the main dining room, service is dependably slow, but the food is always well prepared. The menu is based on standard pub grub of burgers and sandwiches but also includes pizzas, huge salads, and a lot more. Beverage choices include good coffee and unique milkshakes, but no alcohol. BYO if you're in the mood. Partially because of the limited dining options in Hyde Park, Medici is a standby for many members of the U of C community, including us.

Ben - 12:09 AM - 0 comments

Cuisine: Pan-Asian
Location: Chicago
Price: Low
Website: pennysnoodleshop.com

Penny's is a classic in Chicagoland. There are five-ish locations in various neighborhoods, usually near el stops (often under the tracks). Penny's does not serve food specific to any region, but combines flavors from across Asia to create rather Americanized dishes. Some locations reach beyond Asia to offer selections such as California wines or creme brulee. As the name might suggest, most dishes involve noodles somehow - either in a soup, or stir fried, or simply covered in toppings. A smaller number of dishes are served with rice instead.

Assuming you're not a stickler for authenticity, the quality is consistent and good. The vegetables tend to be fresh, flavorful, and cooked gently enough that they retain their crispness and flavor. Sauces are applied lightly to the noodles - they flavor but do not overwhelm. Meats are usually optional, and appropriately seasoned when requested. Among their best dishes are the Pad Thai and the Spicy Basil - though I don't think you can really go wrong.